Ed,
I have one too, a basket case that needed lots of fixing but now is a
fine rig for $200 and some elbow grease.
The Class A solid-state driver section by itself puts out about 3-4
watts, I think -- I remember tracing things out and seeing it flat-top at
about 40 volts peak to peak, of course that was without a 50-ohm load so
I don't know how it would behave.
Mine came with a switch to kill the final heaters, and with a 10 pF
capacitor and a piece of coax hung on the driver output and routed to the
spare jack on the back. I presume he just needed a little drive for a
transverter or something.
The driver is probably the place to look. It would be a simple matter to
add the filament kill switch, then tap off the final output with another
..1 or .01 uF blocking capacitor. This should be rated at 1-3 kV to
protect against possible grid shorts to plate, making the high voltage
appear on the coax lead into the final compartment. You would then have
to make up some lowpass filters for the band of interest, and see to
appropriate TR switching.
On most bands, mine puts out about 5-10 watts with the drive cranked
down-- perfect for tune-up or QRP!
Mark Mandelkern, KN5S is a guy to contact for a big pack of modifications --
there are a number of little and not-so-little problems with the design
that are fun to address. (5259 Singer Rd., Las Cruces, NM 88005).
John Seboldt K0JD
[
QRP-L Archive |
]
[
1993 |
1994 |
1995 |
1996 |
1997 |
1998 |
1999 |
2000
]