From: Fred Moore (firstname.lastname@example.org)
This weekend was the Melborne hamfest here in Florida, I came away with a
Arganaut 509 for 180 dollars, including a mic, Ten-Tec power supply, and
Ten-Tec crystal callibrator, Cosmetically the rig was in perfect shape and
I was guaranteed by the seller that the rig worked perfectly as it was only
being sold because she had 3 of the gems. The only thing that I noticed was
that the dial cord seemed to be slipping.
After getting the gem home and taking the covers off I found that the
problem was not the dial cord but a mechanical bind in the PTO (20 years of
hardened factory lubricant GUNK) As I am sure that some of you have this
rig sitting on a shelf with the same problem hopefully the following
information will be of interest.
If you attempt this make a drawing of the spacers, washers, etc they must go
in exactly the same way as they came out.
Remove the PTO assemble, unsolder the wires on the outside of the assemble,
carefully!, now start the dissembly, carefully loosen the inside nut on the
front of the PTO slide shaft (guessing at the original name, the part with
the long spring). After the nut is loose slide the shaft to the rear remove
the nut, and pull the shaft out watch out for flying springs, and spacers
(from the rear). Unsolder the 24 ga. coil wires they are wrapped around
the posts. Now remove the two rear screws holding the rear hub. CAUTION
this assemble is spring loaded hold the assemble rear "up" THIS WILL KEEP
THE BALL BEARINGS FROM FALLING OUT. (dial shaft down). Once removed you
should be able to slide the shaft to the rear when doing so the 3 ball
bearing in the front will fall out (in my case they were stuck), if so pull
out the inner shaft this will force out the bearings (don't let them loose
on the floor). Once the bearings are loose the shaft should move forward
enough to allow the coil to be removed.
Another hobby of mine is Model Railroading, from this hobby I learned that
many solvents in paints melt plastic, the one solvent (I am sure there are
others I havn't found) that doesn't seem to effect plastic is "Naphta"
availiable at any home / hardware store used for thinning some varnish.
Place all of the parts (except the coil form, and the inner core assemble in
a small dish of Naphta, the grease will immediately disolve, Using a Q-tip
clean (Naphta on it) all grease from the inside of the core assemble (lead
screw), Using a very light greese (I suggest Lubriplate as it doesn't get
hard later) grease the lead screw and start the reassemble process, This
process takes about one hour. If you are very carefull with the length of
the coil leads, resolder exactly as they were you will have very little
The little rig now works perfectly with the exception of an AGC problem. I
will work on it next week.
I am sure that during the last 20 years that there have been numbrous
modifications to this rig, if anyone knows of them please e-mail me. Also
with the rig I received an owners manual, Was there ever a serice manual
printed?, if anyone has one I would be happy to pay for copying and shipping
One final note the person who owned this rig had placed their call (decal)
on the front panel, and then sprayed it with clear lacquer. I removed it
without any damage to the panel by using "Polly S easy-lift-off this is a
very slow acting paint and decal remover availiable at any good hobby shop.
It acts very slow, apply to the spot with a Q-tip, keep rubbing in circles
when the layer is removed immediately wash with windex or equivilent. apply
wax to the surface. In my case you can't find any trace of dammage.
File this information away in the gray matter, You may need it some day..
Thanks in advance for any information on this rig..
My words are my own and copyrighted.
Fred Moore (ARS: WD8KNI) E-Mail: email@example.com
Work: Phone: (407) 678-7233
Central Florida Safe & Lock ESD, Inc
2070 Forsyth Rd
Orlando, Fl 32807
Home: 2118 Allspice Ave.
Orlando, Fl 32837
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